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  • Smoking and the use of alcohol is prohibited at the storage facility.

  • Firearms are prohibited at the storage facility.

  • Occupant shall own the lock used to secure the storage space

  • Owner may limit hours of operation, require verification of Occupant's identity, and inspect vehicles that enter the premises.



  • The Tenant will use the space for storage of motorized vehicles, boats and trailers ONLY.


  • Living things

  • Boxes

  • Used tires

  • Firearms and/or ammunition

  • Explosives and/or Fireworks

  • Containers full of flammables of any kind: gas, propane, gasoline, diesel, kerosene, oil, fuel, paint, etc. (save and except such gasoline, fuel or propane as may be within the tanks of the stored vehicle or boat)

  • Propane appliances must be turned off prior to entering the building. In no instance shall tenant use furnace, stove or refrigerator, or any other equipment requiring a propane power source during storage

  • Drugs or drug paraphernalia

  • Hazardous items of any kind, included but not limited to: asbestos

  • Hazardous or toxic waste material of any kind

  • Items that produce odors of any kind

  • Any item deemed inappropriate by the manager or staff of the facility

  • Any item which detrimentally affects other tenants or the facility


  • Playing of any type of musical instruments

  • Working in the unit

  • Any illegal use of any kind

  • Any use deemed inappropriate by the manager or staff of the facility


  • No Toxic or Flammable liquid Storage

  • No illegal activity is allowed

  • You cannot run a repair shop of any kind (Auto, Air Conditioning, Appliance Repair, etc.)

  • No retail sales can be conducted of any kind

  • You cannot live in your RV or Trailer at any time


  • Property is under 24/7 monitoring

  • Access and Exit photos taken when you arrive and when you leave

  • We believe that prevention is the best policy


NOTE: Tenant agrees to abide by Landlord decision regarding prohibited use of space.

NO LIABILITY: Landlord is not liable to Tenant for loss of or damage to property, injury or death as a result of tenant’s use of the rented space or the facility. Landlord has no liability to Tenant, for loss of or damage to persons or property due to conduct or negligence of other tenants or third parties; or theft; vandalism; acts of God; pests; fire; smoke; explosions; moisture; weather or any other cause whatsoever.

NO WARRANTIES: Landlord gives no express or implied warranties. Tenant acknowledges that he or she has inspected the space and facility and determined that the space and facility are suitable for his or her purposes. Tenant agrees that Landlord does not represent or guarantee the safety or security of the property stored and has no duty of safety or security of any kind.

RULES AND REGULATIONS: Tenant agrees to abide by all rules and regulations posted at the facility (And/or posted on this website) at the time of signing this agreement or as amended from time to time by notice mailed to the Tenant by regular mail. Tenant agrees that the rules and regulations are incorporated into this agreement for all purposes.



When it comes to RV storage, the best thing to do to avoid missing any steps is to make a checklist. Start with utilities like turning off heat, electricity and AC circuit breakers. Here are a few tips to get you started:


1. Inspect and unplug electrical devices and the battery. Your RV storage checklist should also include inspecting all devices that could drain the battery if you forget to turn them off, including alarms, shut-off valves, TV antenna boosters and any other plug-in electrical element inside the RV. To be extra safe, disconnect the negative cable on your battery. If you're storing your RV during the winter and your area experiences freezing temperatures, it's best to remove your battery entirely and store it in a room-temperature place.


2. Clean out your water tanks. Clean-out jobs for RV storage should cover sewage tanks and water tanks. Empty both the wastewater and the freshwater tanks at a dump station before storing the RV. Also empty toilets and the water heater. One recommended way of cleaning out your tanks is to fill them with a mixture of water and baking soda or bleach, then drive your RV around for a short period of time so that the liquid sloshes around, cleaning out your tanks. Make sure to empty the tanks immediately afterwards.


3. Dry out your pipes. After your tanks have been cleaned out, it's time to attend to your pipes. This is particularly important if you're storing your RV during the winter, when water can freeze and expand, bursting your pipes. It's impossible to completely dry out your pipes, but one way of expelling as much moisture as possible is to send compressed air through the system. Consult your owner's manual or an RV mechanic before doing so, as compressed air can damage some plumbing systems. Otherwise, your safest bet is to add antifreeze to the system in sufficient amounts to ensure that all pipes have been treated. Don't forget to pour a little antifreeze down every drain and toilet in your RV as well.


4. Close off the gas tank. Propane tanks should be topped off and gas supplies shut off. Remove propane tanks if possible and store them somewhere cool and dry, like a basement. Turn off any appliances that use gas (stoves, ovens, furnaces, water heaters).


5. Take care of the engine. Change or top off your oil, radiator, windshield wiper fluid and brake fluid. Add antifreeze to the radiator. Fill up your gas tank, adding the appropriate amount of fuel stabilizer along the way. Filling your tank will prevent moisture from building up in your tank and corroding the material, while the stabilizer will make sure the fuel doesn't break down. Run the engine for a few minutes so that the stabilizer can spread.


6. Take off the tires. When your RV rests on the same spot on its tires for a long period of time, its tires can develop flat spots that will ruin them. Cold temperatures can exacerbate this issue. This isn't much of a problem if you're able to take your RV out and drive every few weeks, but if you aren't, removing your tires and setting the RV up on jacks or blocks will extend the life of your tires. If you decide not to remove your tires, make sure to put chocks around the wheels. Don't engage the emergency brake, as it can fuse with the rotors over time.


7. Take care of the roof. If you're storing the RV in an uncovered space, a leaky roof could damage the interior and prevent you from getting back on the road when the time comes. Ensure that you've closed and sealed the roof vents, and make sure you don't need roof-sealing maintenance. Using mesh screens on the inside of vents and covering them up with cardboard can prevent squirrels, birds and bugs from entering. It's best to have your roof inspected once per year to keep it in good shape, so get into the routine of doing this before you store for the winter. Minor cracks and exposed seams can be covered with a good outdoor sealer.


8. Clean it out. Empty and unplug your refrigerator, then leave the door open with a bucket underneath so that the ice in your freezer thaws. Thoroughly clean the RV of any food or crumbs. Take any perishables out of your vehicle. It's even a good idea to spray ant killer or leave ant traps inside the RV. Lubricate the hinges on all doors.

9. Cover it up. Get an RV cover to protect your RV from dust, sun damage, hail, birds and other animals. Don't just rely on a cover to protect you from water damage if the roof needs repair. Reseal the roof or find a covered storage space to prevent serious damage.



Taking the proper precautions is very important if you want your boat to be ready to use when spring comes. Failure to winterize your boat can cause significant damage such as cracks, leaks, corrosion, and frozen pipes. Freezing, dormancy, moisture, and corrosion can lead to large repair bills. In order to avoid costly repairs in the spring, it is important to take the proper precautions in the fall.


Here are some necessary steps to take when winterizing your boat:

1. Clean Be sure to give your boat a thorough cleaning inside and out. This will also let you discover anything that might need repair before putting your boat away until the spring. It will let you take care of any spills or messes that you may not have been aware of, and thus let you avoid having to uncover any mysterious odors in the spring. Clean your boat and apply a rust inhibitor on your steering and control cables and on the metal hardware.

2. Repair damages. It is best to handle anything that is broken, worn, or damaged in the fall when boatyards are less busy than in the springtime rush. You also don’t want to leave something like a crack sitting all winter long, as damage could become worse.

3. Remove electronics. All electronics should be removed and stored in a safe, dry, and warm place.

4. Prevent mildew. Things such as cushions, curtains, sails, personal flotation devices, and fire extinguishers should also be stored. Lockers and drawers should be propped open to air out, and the refrigerator should be emptied out. To avoid mildew, keep the moisture inside your boat in suspension and on the move. A dehumidifier can help increase the interior air temperature and prevent moisture, as it keeps the air circulating inside the boat. Be sure to place some boxes of baking soda throughout your boat to absorb moisture.

5. Drain.  Drain the fluid from your manifolds and engine blocks, water pumps, and coolers. Be sure to drain and fill the gearcase with gearcase lubricants. Drain the port-a-potty, fresh water tank, and hot water heater. Add non-toxic antifreeze to your water tank, hot water heater, and port-a-potty.

6. Fuel and antifreeze. Fill the gas tank to prevent condensation, oxidation, and gas spoilage. Be sure to add stabilizer to preserve the gas and prevent damage to the fuel system. Run the engine for about 15 minutes to make sure the stabilizer reaches the gas in your fuel lines. Put antifreeze into the cooling system and into the supply lines for the water faucets and shower.

7. Monitor oil. Run the engine to warm it up and change the oil while it is warm. Dirty engine oil can thicken after long-term storage and make it difficult to start the boat when you are done storing it. Be sure to change the oil filter, too.

8. Prepare the engine. You’ll also want to change the transmission fluid, remove spark plugs, and use “fogging oil” on each cylinder. Spray a towel with fogging oil or WD-40 and wipe down the engine.


9. Paint. Sand the bottom of the boat and repaint it to prevent rust.


10. Prepare the battery. Disconnect the battery cables and remove the battery. Clean the terminal ends, wash the battery with a solution of water and baking soda, and rinse it with distilled water. Apply a light coating of grease to the terminal ends of the battery and cables. Be sure to use a trickle charger to keep the battery charged. Store it in a dry, safe place and off of concrete.


11. Inspect the stern drive. Thoroughly inspect the stern drive and remove any plants or barnacles from the lower unit. For stern drives with rubber boots, be sure to check for cracks or holes. Make sure you grease all fittings and check your fluid levels.

12. Clean bilges. Bilges should be clean and dry. Use soap, hot water, and a stiff brush to clean up any spills from oil. Once the bilges are clean, spray them with a moisture-displacing lubricant and add antifreeze to prevent water from freezing.

13. Choose a proper cover. Be sure to cover your boat tightly before storing it, even if it is being stored indoors. Make sure that whatever cover you choose has good ventilation. Also be certain there are no tears or damages to the cover.

Most insurance policies don’t cover damage caused by lack of maintenance, so winterizing is very important. The best way to winterize your boat is to check your owner’s manual; every boat is different. Don’t be afraid to seek professional help and ask lots of questions if you have never winterized before. It’s better to be safe than sorry.

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